I admit, I have an addiction. If conditions are favorable, I will eat Mexican food every single day for a week. Nachos, tacos, I’ll eat all the cheap stuff (though not from Taco Bell, thank you), but my favorite is a big old burrito.
And I’m a big fan of rice in my burritos; I love how it absorbs the liquid from the beans, the salsa, and the sour cream to make a “special sauce” all its own, which drips down your hands ever so persistently as you unwrap each successive layer of foil.
So when I heard two brothers from Cali had opened Dos Toros Taqueria off Union Square with the intention of gracing our fair city with real San Francisco Mission-style burritos, I had to taste. And I had to bring Natalie, who loves burritos dearly from her years spent in San Diego and who often seems more of a West Coaster than a girl from Chappaqua, for a test drive.
In the interest of science, we should have each tried a different meat, but neither of us could resist the carnitas. For those who are not tempted by the slow-cooked pork, you can fill your burrito with grilled steak and chicken, or do it Vegetarian Whopper-style without the meat.
The usual Mission burrito preparation was served steamed tortilla, slice o’ melty cheese, choice of pinto or black beans, rice, pico de gallo, guac (and everyone in the shop, including customers, calls it guac no need to add the -amole to the end), meat, sour cream and super spicy green hot sauce, if you dare. I always dare.
We were able to snap one expository picture in the middle of wolfing down our West Coast classics. The foil-wrapped burrito was in fact large enough to be two meals if you had the willpower. I don’t, however, and neither does Natalie. There were no leftovers; everything was absolutely satisfying.
The atmosphere was a little haute boho, sitting at our reclaimed barnwood tables and benches with woven leather stools. But this is no overrated La Esquina, it’s laid-back and unpretentious as we ordered, the guys on the line talked about how they want to get a guitar shaped like a burrito and the prices are right for the quality being offered.
Two slightly messy thumbs-up for more burrito options in this town. I’m sure they’ll make a killing with the NYU crowd, and next time I’ll be back to try the tacos.
Dos Toros, 137 4th Ave. at 13th St., New York. 212-677-7300; delivery available.
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