Snapshots: Cure, Pittsburgh
As of March 2019, Cure is closed to make way for a host of other charcuterie-related projects from owner/chef Justin Severino.
Those of us stricken by the Great Cold-Flu Thing of 2013 might immediately associate Cure‘s name with a juice bar-type situation, doling out remedies and elixirs for our overstuffed sinuses, the more level- and clear-headed among us will realize the name of this Pittsburgh restaurant signals another, more delectable type of alchemy: the age-old practice of curing meat.
For the latest installment in the Snapshots series on Good. Food. Stories., here’s a look at a recent evening spent at Cure.
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Look for the pig in the window at the north end of Butler Street, Lawrenceville’s main drag–you can’t miss it.
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With dim lighting, meat hooks, taxidermied critters, and pressed-tin accents, the restaurant has the urban-rustic look down to a T. A small wooden chef’s counter a few steps above the main dining room lets a few diners in on the kitchen action. You can pause for a few seconds on your way to the restroom and steal a peek, but the constant bustle of servers keeps you moving, lest you get knocked out by a bowl of sugo pappardelle.
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Though Chef Justin Severino and team focus on in-house charcuterie, there are vegetables galore throughout the menu. A blackboard lists the Pennsylvania producers and purveyors contributing to the night’s menu, from Green Circle Farm‘s duck to a host of goodies collected through the Penn’s Corner Farm Alliance, like edible flowers from Next Life Farm, Paul Bunyan maple syrup, and wildflower honey from Buzza’s Apiary.
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The SALUMI board (there are two on the menu; splurge and get the larger one, noted in all-caps) showcases the kitchen’s curing talents in glorious abundance. Rillettes, coppa di testa, chorizo, bresaola, duck prosciutto, and other treasures are displayed on a wooden board, but it’s the lardo, flavorful with garlic and spices, that steals the show. Thank sous chef Nathan Hobart for this whipped revelation.
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A charcroute platter is a smorgasbord of pork cuts, from sausage to loin to belly to cheek. With piles of tangy accompaniments like violet mustard and kohlrabi kraut, and a healthy splash of ravigotte (basically a super-vinegary dressing, for you non-Frenchies), the plate is rich and bracing all at once. I couldn’t resist smushing it all together, just like the way I eat my pork and sauerkraut.
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Falling-off-the-bone duck confit, on the other hand, balances the meltingly tender meat with sweetness: hints of blood orange and plum in the sauce are a modern update on the classic duck à l’orange.
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Cure, 5336 Butler St., Pittsburgh PA. 412-252-2595. Closed Tuesdays.
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Casey Barber
Casey Barber is the owner and founder of Good Food Stories LLC and a visual storyteller whose work often focuses on the intersection of food and culture. She is also the author of the cookbooks Pierogi Love: New Takes on an Old-World Comfort Food and Classic Snacks Made from Scratch: 70 Homemade Versions of Your Favorite Brand-Name Treats, and she couldn’t get anything done without the help of her executive assistant cats, Bixby and Lenny. Her favorite color is obviously orange.