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Saffron Buns (Lussekatter) for the Winter Solstice

Written by Danielle Oteri

Swedish saffron buns, also known as lussekatter or St. Lucia buns, are baked in December to celebrate the winter solstice. Here’s the story of these soft, golden yeasted buns that are perfect for serving as part of a breakfast or brunch, or with tea and jam.

The Feast of Saint Lucy, the patron saint of sight, is celebrated on December 13. Before the Gregorian calendar skewed time, her feast was celebrated on the winter solstice.

The story of Saint Lucy is much like many of the stories of early Christian martyrs. A young girl living in a pagan world (in her case, Sicily) yearns to be a bride of Christ, but is promised by her wealthy parents to marry a man.

s-shaped Swedish saffron buns, or lussekatter, on a wire rack
Photo: Casey Barber

In one legend she is punished for her love by having her eyes gouged out. In another, she does the job herself. Images of Saint Lucy usually show her with her eyes on a plate.

Of course the name Lucy, or Lucia, also reminds us of light, something in short supply on the winter solstice. Saint Lucy is one of countless myths that was re-interpreted through the lens of Christianity.

Once we become attached to the details of our stories, we often forget about their mystical roots. Fortunately, they can be retrieved in food, as in the case of these Swedish saffron buns often called St. Lucia buns in Lucy’s honor.

s-shaped Swedish saffron buns, or lussekatter, on plates
Photo: Casey Barber

Saint Lucy is widely celebrated in Sweden. The tradition holds that the eldest girl of a household rises first, wears a white dress with a red sash, places an evergreen wreath and candles atop her head, and serves a breakfast of saffron buns and coffee to her family.

In Stockholm, a girl is chosen to play Lucia and the tradition holds that whomever won the Nobel Prize for Literature (celebrated just three days before Saint Lucy’s feast) publicly crowns her.

The saffron buns are called lussekatter, and much like Saint Lucy herself, the saffron was also exported from Sicily in the early Middle Ages.

s-shaped Swedish saffron buns, or lussekatter, on plates
Photo: Casey Barber

Saffron represented the golden light that would gradually increase in the days following Saint Lucy’s feast. These St. Lucia buns also recall the ancient Viking tradition of offering bread shaped like the sun to their deities on the solstice.

Editor’s Notes on Baking Saffron Buns:

Lussekatter can be formed into many different shapes, as seen in this illustration from Johanna Kindvall.

I find the “S” shape as seen in the photographs accompanying this post to be the easiest for saffron bun beginners, but you can experiment with others as desired.

s-shaped Swedish saffron buns, or lussekatter, on a wire rack

Be sure to form the shapes loosely and do not coil them too tightly as you place them on the baking sheet, since they’ll puff up a lot as they bake.

The saffron buns can also be decorated with raisins, instead of mixing them into the dough, or sprinkled with pearl sugar.

s-shaped Swedish saffron buns, or lussekatter, on plates

Swedish Saffron Buns (Lussekatter)

Yield: about 12-16 buns
Prep Time: 30 minutes
Cook Time: 15 minutes
Additional Time: 3 hours 30 minutes
Total Time: 4 hours 15 minutes

Swedish saffron buns, also known as lussekatter or St. Lucia buns, are baked in December to celebrate the winter solstice. These soft, golden rolls are perfect with breakfast, brunch, or tea.

Ingredients

  • 1 package (2 1/4 teaspoons) active dry yeast
  • 1/4 cup warm water (100-105 degrees F)
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1/2 cup whole milk
  • 1 pinch saffron threads (about 1/4 teaspoon)
  • 2 1/2 cups (300 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour, divided (see recipe instructions)
  • 1/4 cup granulated sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 large egg
  • 1/2 cup raisins (Thompson or golden)
  • baking spray for greasing

Instructions

Make the dough:

  1. In the bowl of a stand mixer, stir the active dry yeast and water together and let sit for 5 minutes until foamy.
  2. While the yeast activates, melt the butter and warm the milk in a small saucepan over low heat.
  3. Add the saffron to the butter and milk and let sit for 5 minutes to "bloom."
  4. Add 1/4 cup (30 grams) flour, sugar, and salt to the yeast, stirring at medium-low speed.
  5. Add the saffron-infused milk and stir until incorporated.
  6. Add the egg and another 1/4 cup (30 grams) of flour, continuing to stir until incorporated.
  7. Stir in the remaining 2 cups (240 grams) flour and switch to the mixer's dough hook.
  8. Continue to knead on medium-low speed until the dough is smooth, 6-7 minutes.
  9. Add the raisins and mix on low speed until combined.
  10. Grease a large bowl, add the dough, and cover with a plate or a damp cloth.
  11. Place in a warm spot in your house, such as the oven with only the light turned on, and let rest for 1 1/2 hours or until the dough doubles in size.

Shape and bake the buns:

  1. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper.
  2. Place the risen dough onto a lightly floured work area.
  3. Tear off golf-ball sized pieces of dough and roll each with your palms into a thin strip about 12 inches long.
  4. Form into S shapes or other shapes as desired on the prepared baking sheets.
  5. Be sure not to coil the buns too tightly or place them less than 2 inches apart on the baking sheet — leave some empty space, since the buns will puff up as they bake.
  6. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F while the buns rise for 30 minutes more.
  7. Bake the buns for about 15 minutes, until lightly golden.
  8. Serve warm.

Notes

If saving extra buns, place in an airtight bag or container and refrigerate for up to 3 days, or freeze for up to 6 months. Reheat in a microwave or toaster oven.

Nutrition Information:
Yield: 12 Serving Size: 1
Amount Per Serving: Calories: 160Total Fat: 3gSaturated Fat: 2gTrans Fat: 0gUnsaturated Fat: 1gCholesterol: 22mgSodium: 65mgCarbohydrates: 30gFiber: 1gSugar: 9gProtein: 4g

The nutritional information above is computer-generated and only an estimate.

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