Pass the Ripasso

I would never call myself a wine expert, but I feel fairly confident in my knowledge of Italian wines because of this simple rule: what grows together goes together. I guarantee that with this in mind, you’ll feel a lot more confident the next time you’re browsing at your local wine store.

If I’m going to cook fish or seafood, I’ll take any white wine from the Veneto. (Venetians eat a lot of fish.) Choose a Chianti if you’re going to make beef or pork, since Tuscan cuisine is filled with hearty meat dishes. If it’s a cold Saturday night and I’ve got a fresh batch of Netflix, I’ll order a pizza and treat myself to a Sicilian Nero D’Avola, or a Salice Salentino from Puglia.

Amarone is the only Italian wine I covet, yet rarely enjoy. It’s special so I will only buy it for a special occasion or for an especially good home-cooked meal. It’s very full and ripe, with a raisiny taste that goes perfectly with roasted or barbecued meats. Get this–in the novel The Silence of the Lambs, Hannibal eats his liver with “fava beans and a big Amarone”!

As you may have guessed, Amarone is expensive, but I recently stumbled upon Valpolicella Ripasso, an amazing second best. The Italian word ripasso means “re-passed,” and here the Valpolicella wine is passed over the semi-dry grapes used to make Amarone. The result is dark and juicy, and there’s a really long, smooth finish. It’s Amarone’s sexy younger cousin. Now don’t let this make you think she’s cheap, but she’ll cost you a lot less than the prima donna.

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I really love the 2007 Torre del Falasco Valpolicella Ripasso ($14.99). I enjoyed it this weekend with the remnants of what was in my fridge and freezer–penne, roasted butternut squash, garlic, and lamb meatballs covered with grated ricotta salata. The wine, along with the ground lamb, was delicious so I’m imagining how fantastic it would taste with a roasted leg of lamb.

If you live in New York, I highly recommend stopping by Columbus Circle Wines & Spirits. It was here that the smart and completely unpretentious staff let me in on the secret of Ripasso.

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