Posts tagged ‘Cilento’

After reviewing New York City Food by Arthur Schwartz, the Food Maven himself included GFS in his newsletter, describing it as ”a very literate and informative web site.” (Casey and I have been proudly bandying that description around.) As a result, I got in touch with Arthur and we decided to meet for lunch to discuss our favorite things—food, New York, and Italy. I also wanted to hear all about his new book, The Southern Italian Table.

Recently a good friend of mine who now lives in Colorado stated that she missed how true New Yorkers get right to the good stuff without any unnecessary small talk or fake pleasantries. Arthur and his spouse Bob met me at the door of Cafe Fiorello and instantly we felt like old friends. One conversation poured into another as we dug forks and fingers hungrily into our food, accidentally spilled glasses of water on each other, and talked about our lives and experiences without any pretense or facade. After all, Arthur and Bob are paesanos! What I mean by that is since 2001 they have been conducting culinary-cultural tours in the Cilento, right near my family’s home town of Capaccio. This region is practically their second home and they know its temperament and its food very well. For this reason, Arthur’s new book is probably the best cookbook on Southern Italian food out there. His recipes are born of direct experience and they’ve all been tested and lived with in his Park Slope kitchen.

The recipes are broken down into common categories—Antipasti, Insalate, Pasta and Risotto, Dolci, etc, and the dishes are identified by their region (Campania, Puglia, Molise, etc) or even the exact city or town. The text is rich with personal stories, anecdotes from his cooking school, and historical facts. (I’m a stickler for historical facts and Arthur’s information is flawless.) I love the occasional “variation” thrown in at the bottom of recipe, since I see that as clear evidence of a recipe well-tested and enjoyed. I trust these recipes because Arthur is a person who just gets Southern Italy. He’s relaxed, not too fussy, and understands that Southern Italian cooking is not about precision, but about a little this, a little that, not too many ingredients, and time set aside to enjoy. As he puts it:

Living on the edge of a volcano or a seismic fault line also gives Southern Italians a certain fatalism that translates into enjoying each day to its fullest. Naturally, that includes singing, dancing, making love, and appreciating good food and drink while actually not spending that much time in the kitchen. The Southern Italian table is simple, direct, and healthful, each dish prepared with just a few prime ingredients and laden with dishes that can be prepared quickly. What could be more contemporary?

Lunch wrapped up with coffee and a delicious limoncello tart with a brulée toppping. Arthur talked about the pleasure of eating buffalo milk mozzarella the day it’s made while Bob (an archeologist) gushed about the many fascinating Roman sites in the Cilento. Another glass of water was spilled. Arthur also spoke passionately about his latest interest, the Jews in Southern Italy, and a new tour itinerary that would explore this little-known heritage. We could have talked for two more hours as you usually can with warm souls who enjoy the good things in life.

Arthur gave me my own autographed copy of the book which I’ve been reading cover to cover. I highly recommend it, especially for busy urbanites with small kitchens, or those who frequently cook for one. Lots of easy, inexpensive inspiration awaits you.

Listen to Arthur speak about Southern Italy on WNYC’s Leonard Lopate show as well as on The City Cook.

Italian-Americans are well known for keeping the pasta sabbath. Every Sunday around 2 or 3pm, the whole family (and likely some extra cousins) will sit down for a big pasta meal.  This is the way it has been done for most first- and second-generation Italian families. But this modern life makes it hard to hold fast to such traditions. Many families like mine do Sunday pasta only once in awhile, when my brother and I are both visiting our parents, or for a birthday or special occasion. But why do we do this? Hasn’t Mario Batali let us all know by now that there’s more to Italian cooking than pasta and red sauce?

Much of this has to do with the fact that many Italian-Americans come from the provinces of Salerno, also known as the Ciliento.  There, Sunday dinner means hand-made fusilli, tomato sauce or meat ragù, and large gatherings of families. In New York, large communities of Cilentese settled in Italian Harlem (East Harlem), the Belmont section of the Bronx, and Williamsburg, Brooklyn. In these neighborhoods, Sicilians, Neapolitans, Calabrians, and Apulians lived together as they hadn’t in Italy. Their traditions, their families and their Sunday dinner recipes blended and soon created the culture that made them Italian-Americans.

Pasquale Maio runs the American arm of Cilento Experience, which presents gastronomical tours in the Cilento. He explains:

“According to tradition,  fusilli were only freshly made to honor Ferragosto, Easter and Christmas. But this succulent, typically Cilentano dish is eaten on Sundays for the family reunion or to celebrate a special occasion and relax at home with  family. My bisnonna (great-grandmother) always says to me that one MUST have fusilli al ragù as a Sunday meal and if you have guest you have to respect them by making fresh pasta.”

Here’s a simple recipe from Pasquale’s family for fresh Sunday fusilli, or, fusiddi, as they say in the Cilento.

• 2 lbs flour 
• 4 eggs
• 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
• Room temperature water as needed

Prepare flour into a fountain shape on a pastry board. Add eggs, oil and water into the center of the flour. Using a fork, mix together all ingredients and combine well. Using your hands, slowly incorporate the rest of the flour and knead dough until the texture is consistent. Set aside for a half hour.

Using your palm, separate dough into small cigarette-shaped sections. Gently remove from board and lay pasta on a tray. Continue until dough has all been used.

Once pasta has been cooked, prepare with tomato sauce or with a meat ragù.