On a Mission to Dos Toros

I admit, I have an addiction. If conditions are favorable, I will eat Mexican food every single day for a week. Nachos, tacos, I’ll eat all the cheap stuff (though not from Taco Bell, thank you), but my favorite is a big old burrito.

And I’m a big fan of rice in my burritos; I love how it absorbs the liquid from the beans, the salsa, and the sour cream to make a “special sauce” all its own, which drips down your hands ever so persistently as you unwrap each successive layer of foil.

So when I heard two brothers from Cali had opened Dos Toros Taqueria off Union Square with the intention of gracing our fair city with real San Francisco Mission-style burritos, I had to taste. And I had to bring Natalie, who loves burritos dearly from her years spent in San Diego and who often seems more of a West Coaster than a girl from Chappaqua, for a test drive.

In the interest of science, we should have each tried a different meat, but neither of us could resist the carnitas. For those who are not tempted by the slow-cooked pork, you can fill your burrito with grilled steak and chicken, or do it Vegetarian Whopper-style without the meat.

The usual Mission burrito preparation was served — steamed tortilla, slice o’ melty cheese, choice of pinto or black beans, rice, pico de gallo, guac (and everyone in the shop, including customers, calls it guac — no need to add the -amole to the end), meat, sour cream and super spicy green hot sauce, if you dare. I always dare.

We were able to snap one expository picture in the middle of wolfing down our West Coast classics. The foil-wrapped burrito was in fact large enough to be two meals if you had the willpower. I don’t, however, and neither does Natalie. There were no leftovers; everything was absolutely satisfying.

The atmosphere was a little haute boho, sitting at our reclaimed barnwood tables and benches with woven leather stools. But this is no overrated La Esquina, it’s laid-back and unpretentious — as we ordered, the guys on the line talked about how they want to get a guitar shaped like a burrito — and the prices are right for the quality being offered.

Two slightly messy thumbs-up for more burrito options in this town. I’m sure they’ll make a killing with the NYU crowd, and next time I’ll be back to try the tacos.

Dos Toros, 137 4th Ave. at 13th St., New York. 212-677-7300; delivery available.