Hey, we get it. Rosé has been played out since the New York Times declared it the “summer drink to be seen with” for those damn hipsters a few summers ago, and you’re looking for a newer, fresher glug for your glass. Allow me to introduce you to my longtime, semi-undercover summer love: vinho verde.
A Portuguese wine whose name translates to “green wine” for the fact that it’s bottled young, vinho verde is an effervescent white that’s heavy with tart citrusy notes—think lime, green apple, and nectarine—and sometimes lets a hint of summery melon sneak in. (Reds and rosés do exist in vinho verde-land, although they’re rarely to be found in American wine stores.)
Best of all, it’s scary affordable. Most bottles fall in the under-$10 category, making it a zippy alternative to Prosecco or Cava (both of which should not be bank-breakers either). This is a wine born for nights on the patio, backyard barbecues, and early al fresco happy hours—not something to hoard in your cellar for decades. It’s young, it’s hip, it’s fun; take it out on the town for a spin! >> And vinho verde makes great sangria too! Read on for the recipe. >>
Danielle and I get together with a bunch of our former co-workers every month for a themed feast in honor of our friend Glory, one of our managers, mentors, and quite frankly, one of the most generous people you’ve ever met. She passed away in February and because she was always finding ways to feed you, gift you, and generally be welcoming and all-inclusive, we could think of no better way to keep her traditions going than by stuffing ourselves silly and swapping long, rambling stories all night long.
This past month, inspired by a talk by Adam Lerner and Rick Field on preserved foods, the theme was pickling. As usual, the group (which numbers almost 15) rose to the challenge. We drank Bloody Marys with briny green bean garnishes and munched on pickled carrots, dilly beans, and peppers from Leda Meredith of the New York Botanical Garden, Phat Beets from Rick’s Picks served atop a goat cheese-and-olive oil-slathered baguette, and some (thankfully) non-acidic options like spicy soppressata and salami, delicate dried white figs, and a smooth and rich mint/pea/walnut/parmesan dip.
pickled peaches with lemon ice cream
But the pickled peaches were the stealth hit of the night – for all the savory treats in front of us, we were happily surprised by the winey-spicy flavor permeating the sweet fruit. I’m currently eating the leftovers with lemon ice cream, but they would be excellent pureed for a new take on a Bellini (Glory’s favorite drink) or alongside a pork tenderloin.
I adapted the recipe from Alice Waters’ Chez Panisse Fruit—if you don’t have all the spices called for, I implore you to take the time to find them, because their flavors really come through in the fruit after its poaching.
1/2 cup red wine (I used a Sangiovese because that was what was open, but I’m sure it would be equally tasty with a peppery Shiraz or Malbec)
1/4 cup honey
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
8 cloves
4 allspice berries
1 whole stick cinnamon
2 fresh bay leaves
Combine all ingredients except the peaches in a wide, heavy-bottomed pot, cover, and bring to a boil. Remove the lid, simmer for 5 minutes, and add the peaches, making sure they are covered by the liquid. (You might have to flip them halfway through.)
Cook until tender, about five minutes, checking with a paring knife to make sure they are soft the whole way through. Remove the peaches with a spoon or ladle and fill a two-quart canning jar or other large heat-proof jar that seals well. (You won’t be water-bathing them, so it’s ok if it’s not a real canning jar.)
Let the liquid cool slightly and then ladle over the peaches until the jar is full. Close, cool to room temperature, and refrigerate. The peaches will keep for a week or two in the fridge but will eventually start to look feathery and disintegrate, so eat up!
I’m cooking dinner for my parents…but it’s August and I don’t want to heat my apartment. What can I cook that doesn’t involve the oven and a minimal amount of long boiling pots?
This is a tough call for me, because I am a full-fledged kitchen sado-masochist. I have no compunction about turning on the oven in 90-degree weather, torturing myself and my extra-furry, extra-sheddy cats in the pursuit of delicious cherry pies, peach galettes, the best breakfast bread, and even mac and cheese. But maybe it’s time to rethink my ways. >> Read on for hot-weather recipes that won’t make you overheat. >>
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