Posts tagged ‘organic’

What I’ve learned from my CSA
Danielle | November 11, 2009 | 9:19 am

I’m missing my CSA fruit and vegetable share which came to a close last week. Every Thursday night since early June, I would trot up to Isham Park and pick up my horde delivered by the Hawthorne Valley farm. I learned a heck of a lot about eating vegetables this summer. Here are some of the highlights:

  • Rainbow or swiss chard.I had never seen this stuff before and swiss chard always intimidated me. It’s now one of my favorite veggies and can stand alone as a meal. Cut the stems out away from the leaves and then chop them in to 2 inch slices. Toss them in a warm pan with garlic and a good extra-virgin olive oil. Once they start to soften, throw in all the leaves and cook for another 3-5 minutes. Cover with toasted breadcrumbs (which I do in my toaster oven) and grated cheese and give it one more swirl of olive oil before serving. It’s so completely satisfying you won’t need anything else except dessert.
  • Carrots. Whenever I think of carrots, I think of a sad little Ziploc bag of them brought in for lunch by someone initiating a diet. However, fresh picked organic carrots are a whole ‘notha thing. They smell and taste like church. There’s some some distinct smell and flavor that reminds me of incense at an Easter Vigil Mass in a Catholic church. They get even more complex when roasted. Just chop off the tops, peel them, and then roast them with olive oil, coarse salt, and your favorite herbs.
  • Kale. This is another green that used to scare me. I also found that there are several kinds, some that have very curly, fibrous leaves, and others that have flat quilted leaves. I often sauteed kale with olive oil and anchovies and then mixed it in with pasta. I also made kale chips for the first time which are addictive. Lisa over at A Dinner Party has a great recipe for them.
  • Eggplant. I’m convinced that Americans just don’t know how to cook eggplant and that’s why it has such an awful name. In Italian, an eggplant is melanzana. It sounds like a seductive Sicilian dance. In French, it’s the very regal aubergine. Isn’t that nicer than eggplant? So if you’re going to make eggplant, buy the smaller Italian or Japanese varieties, not those grocery store monsters that look like the love children of bowling balls and pins.  The timid should try my twist on Pasta alla Norma–penne with basil, eggplant, and ricotta. After cubing up the eggplant, dip the pieces in beaten egg,  dredge them in spelt flour, and lightly fry them. The eggplant then becomes a nice crunchy compliment to all that soft pasta, cheese, and tomato sauce. Spelt flour is very nutritious so you don’t have to feel guilt about the frying. (Not that you should anyway.) 
  • Leeks. Potage parmentier, or potato leek soup is the first recipe in Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking which I only know because of this classic Julie/Julia project post. I also started using leeks as base for other less flavorful vegetables like cabbage. Throw chopped leeks, garlic, red pepper flakes, an anchovy, and olive oil (or butter) together in a pan and heat them until they really melt down to nearly nothing. Then throw in chopped white cabbage and chicken sausage, both of which can be pretty bland, and you’ll get a really savory winter stew which you can serve with polenta, sourdough bread, or homemade bisquits.
  • Turnips. I tried, but I just don’t like ‘em. I roasted them, I fried them, I covered them with cheese. Still yuck. I gave them to Casey who ultimately put them in her awesome chicken pot pie.
  • Don’t forget about zucchini and eggs! I’ve had numerous personal emails from Good. Food. Stories. readers who have made this a regular part of their weekly lunch rotation. Of course, spring zucchini is the best, but it is available off-season in grocery stores and mixing it with eggs and cheese is probably your best option.

If you have the opportunity to join a CSA next year, I highly recommend it! First, your money and participation supports a local farm and organic farming in our area. Good and good. Second, it’s cheap! One fruit and vegetable share cost $660, which spread out over 20 weeks means $33 a week, split 3 ways (because one share is meant to feed 4 people), means I spent $11 a week for fresh-picked organic produce brought right to my neighborhood directly from the farm. Finally, the leftovers are often donated. Inwood’s went to the Love Kitchen,  a community-run soup kitchen that is open five days a week.

Ode to a Tomato
Danielle | September 16, 2009 | 11:28 am

tomatoesSigh. The temperatures in my fair city have dropped to the high 60’s.  I’m already reaching into the hall closet, which hasn’t been opened since April, for my favorite red hoodie, as I clip the leash on Rocco and head to the park where a few leaves are already fading to yellow. Autumn in New York, as Ella Fitzgerald sang, is often mingled with pain, because this year, I missed feasting on late summer tomatoes. 

In February as I paid for my CSA share, I had visions of tomatoes covering my kitchen table. August was going to be one giant caprese salad. I was going to roast them, preserve them, and savor their organic goodness all summer. Alas, it was not meant to be because of the late blight. It’s been well documented for us unlucky east coasters.  A contagious fungus, coaxed out and encouraged by the relentless June rain ruined tomato crops throughout the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic states. The organic farmers were hit especially hard. The farmers at Hawthorne Valley Farm (my CSA farm) enlightened me.  Here is an excerpt from their August 27th newsletter:

We didn’t spray copper, a controversial fungicide allowable under some organic standards, that some say would have staved off the late blight on our tomatoes for at least a little while. Under Biodynamic standards, copper is allowable only three times. This season the organic farmers that did choose to use copper sprayed copper many, many more times than three, and still don’t have a strong tomato crop. June and July were so consistently wet that spraying after every rain became quite a job. Copper is powerful and kills both beneficial and pathogenic fungi in the soil and on the plants. Some farmers worried about the longer term affects of spraying copper on the beneficial organisms in the soil. Building the soil, the soil structure and beneficial organisms that live in the soil, is really the main job of any sustainable farmer. Without a healthy soil system, not much can grow without using a lot of inputs from manufactured fertilizers and manufactured soil amendments (none of which are used here – we use only compost made from our own farm materials). The decision can be a hard one: to spray copper to save some of a tomato harvest this year, or to forgo the current tomato harvest in favor of a longer term soil health, not to mention that some people are also very sensitive to copper. The copper spray can drift onto other crops if there is any breeze, and if those crops are near to harvest, the copper may not have enough time to degrade to an allowable standard before harvest time. A person spraying the copper needs to wear special protection to prevent inhaling the copper, or copper coming in contact with any exposed skin or the eyes. With our vegetable crop rotation closely spaced in the field, we decided not to risk contaminating the other crops with copper drift. With all the children on the farm,we decided not to risk any accidental exposure to copper.  

To abate my sorrow, I’m going to splurge and order a decadently priced can of San Marzano tomatoes from the slopes of Mount Vesuvius in Italy. Fortunately, the good people at Gustiamo, (my personal version of Bloomingdales) have them in stock, in the Bronx, waiting to be enjoyed.

Till next year, sweet tomatoes…

Cilantro Pesto
Danielle | August 2, 2009 | 10:18 pm

IMG_1629One thing I’ve learned from my CSA farm share—organic vegetables go bad fast.  It makes me wonder if the folks over at Whole Paycheck are playing fast and loose with the organic label.  (I tease because I’m jealous. Their produce section makes me happier than Bloomingdale’s.) So when I bought a big, beautiful bunch of cilantro at Saturday’s farmer’s market, I knew I needed to do something delicious with it before the end of the weekend.

I improvised with a few basic ingredients to create an Asian inspired cilantro pesto.  What I love about pesto is that you don’t have to be to precise about your ingredients. Like garlic? Add a ton of garlic! Add cheese to make it creamy or more oil so that it soaks well into sandwich bread. It’s done best when suited to your taste.  My taste buds craved the perfect balance of brightness and heat.  Out came my very handy mini-chopper and in went:

  • a handful of peanuts
  • the whole darned bunch of cilantro leaves
  • juice of half a lime
  • about a tablespoon of sesame oil
  • a clove of raw garlic. Back off vampire trend!
  • Finally, a few splashes of Sriracha.

Rocco, my constant kitchen companion.

Rocco, my constant kitchen companion.

I served my pesto over Japanese wheat noodles. They have a nice bite that pairs well with the boldness of these flavors. Now tell me your pesto secrets!