Posts tagged ‘Hidden Kitchen’

Today we welcome back Parisian Correspondent Christine Miksis with her contribution to the Good. Food. Stories. Neighborhood Guide series. Whether you’re looking for the best baguette in the City of Lights or just craving a pizza after spending three hours in the Louvre, Christine’s neighborhood of le deuxieme arrondissement has it all.

If you’ve traveled to Paris, you’ve probably been to the Latin Quarter, Saint-Germain-des-Prés and le Marais, but you may have missed their unassuming yet stylish neighbor, the 2nd arrondissement. Quelle surprise—this neighborhood with a true local, Parisian feel also happens to be my home.

In the heart of the city, the 2nd is about a 10-15 minute walk from the Louvre, the Seine and Palais Royal. The historic market street Rue Montorgueil draws in a number of locals and tourists alike with its cheese shops and fishmongers. Because the neighborhood also houses a handful of intriguing passages* and a multitude of fashion showrooms and shops like Sandro and Maje, a lot of young, fashionable things flock to the restaurant and bar scene after working or window shopping.

>> Read on for the best and tastiest cuisine in Paris’ 2nd arrondissement. >>

Today we check in with Parisian correspondent Christine Miksis, who has been learning the ropes at acclaimed Parisian supper club Hidden Kitchen. Here she shares the secret to one of the in-demand restaurant’s seasonal recipes courtesy of chef Braden Perkins.

I was fortunate enough to pick up a few tricks from an insider of the Parisian restaurant scene during a recent shopping trip to the Marché d’Aligre. Armed with an empty canvas bag, lots of Euro coins and a brain chock full of innovative recipes, Braden Perkins showed me the ropes and gathered sunchokes, cilantro, clementines and other ingredients for Hidden Kitchen, a private supper club he and his fiancée Laura Adrian host at their très chic apartment.

The Hidden Kitchen mascot, Tatie

If you happen to be traveling to Paris and are lucky enough to score one of the 16 sought-after seats at this dinner table, anticipate ten courses of creative recipes paired with wines and good conversation. You might even have the honor of meeting their charming Boston terrier, Tatie.

If you cannot make it to Hidden Kitchen, bring a piece of it into your own home by whipping up this awesome espresso-encrusted pork roulade recipe I picked up from the food duo that day after the market. They taught me how to prepare and cook this in about 45 minutes total (prep time 25 minutes, cook time under 20 minutes). Braden suggests serving the dish beside some roasted pumpkin, sweet potato or carrot mash, and pairing with a French Burgundy or an Oregon Pinot.

Espresso Encrusted Pork Roulade
(serves 4 people)

• 6 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 1/2 cup cilantro, roughly chopped
• Zest of 3 clementines
• Juice of 1 clementine
• 1 1/2 tbsp olive oil
• 3 butterflied pork tenderloins or large boneless pork chops
• 5 ft butcher’s twine
• 2 tbsp ground espresso beans
• 2 tsp brown sugar
• 1 tsp black pepper
• 1 tsp salt
• 1 gallon-size Ziploc bag

Add the first five ingredients to a medium bowl and mix well.

With a meat tenderizer, pound each pork tenderloin on both sides to flatten them out as evenly as possible (1/2-inch width is ideal). Afterwards, square off the edges using a knife to form a rectangular shape, and if necessary, even out the width as well by carefully cutting off any excess meat from the top. Reserve the excess pork pieces. Note that Braden actually uses grillade de porc, which is generally a cut of pork difficult to find in the U.S.

Next, generously salt and pepper the pork and scoop about 2 1/2 tbsp of the cilantro mix on top of each tenderloin. For a heartier filling, add any extra strips of the reserved pork pieces. Roll up each tenderloin like a sushi roll, keeping the cilantro filling evenly distributed throughout.

flattened and filled

rolled

Pre-heat the oven to 400 degrees, and heat a large skillet, preferably cast iron, to medium-high to high heat. In the meantime, take out the trusty butcher’s twine and truss the pork to secure for cooking. It may sound scary, but it is actually quite simple. For the unfamiliar, just follow this quick and easy video. Five to eight loops of string around the meat should do the trick.

trussing the pork tenderloin

Add espresso grounds, brown sugar, salt and pepper to the Ziploc bag and mix well. Toss in the trussed tenderloins and shake until evenly covered.

Once the skillet is completely hot, add some oil, then sear the pork 1 minute per side (do all four sides), or until crispy and darkened. Turn off the stovetop but leave the skillet on the hot burner.

Transfer the pork rolls to a baking sheet and pop in the oven for about 10 minutes. Transfer the pork back to the skillet and let rest for another 5 minutes or until cooked through. Remove the twine and slice off the ends. Cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces and serve.

the finished product, here served Asian style with pickled radish, sticky rice and a balsamic soy glaze

The only thing left to do afterwards is to fake a little French flair — throw on a striped Breton tee-shirt, light some candles and turn up the Serge Gainsbourg. You’re now good to go.