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Rice and Beans. So There.

Written by Danielle Oteri

I never really got rice and beans. They’re okay, but nothing I ever crave or get excited about.

Here in my largely Dominican neighborhood, though, rice and beans are gospel.

Available in every restaurant, bodega, and hole-in-the-wall, I assumed that they remind people of home, of life in the Caribbean where things are warmer and simpler.

Recently, I’ve come to understand their appeal–albeit in a roundabout way–courtesy of my good friend Ana, who recently shared a little advice from her six-year old daughter, Rebeca.

rice and beans in a bowl
Photo: Casey Barber

After having a rough start to her workday, Ana called Rebeca, who was at home with Dad, for a bit of advice.

“Hi honey. I wonder if you can help me with something. What do you do when you’re having a bad day and you want to feel better?”

Rebeca immediately replied, “Um. Well, sometimes I eat.” (A kid after my own heart.)

But she kept thinking and then added, “Oh, and music, listening to music makes me feel better.”

bowls of rice and beans
Photo: Casey Barber

Ana was already grinning ear to ear. “Sweetie, those are great ideas!”

“Oooh, Oooh!” Rebeca interrupted. “Jumping up and down! Yeah, that always makes me feel good. Just jump up and down a lot!”

Ana relayed Rebeca’s advice to me while nearly crying; she was so struck by her little girl’s sweetness and honesty.

It sounded like wise counsel, so after hanging up the phone, I loped over to the stereo in my socks and set my iPod to shuffle, hopeful that some jumping up and down to music might help my own dull day improve.

rice and beans in a bowl
Photo: Casey Barber

The first song that played was Arroz con Habichuela, a cha-cha song by the iconic Latin big band El Gran Combo.

I downloaded it three summers ago when I was taking salsa dance lessons in a makeshift studio above the rumbling 190th Street subway station.

The teacher, a gold-toothed tough guy with Gene Kelly’s feet, counted out the beats and yelled “Cha, Cha, Cha” on every count of two as I, in my gold shoes, hammered out the steps on the waxy floor until thoroughly exhausted and soaked in sweat.

That was a great summer. I loved the song, though I had never before paid attention to the lyrics.

The chorus repeats: Esto no es ensaladita light. Arroz con habichuela y vianda es lo que hay.

rice and beans in a bowl
Photo: Casey Barber

Translation: This is not a light salad. Beans and rice is the food, so there.

I suddenly remembered the beautiful little bag of black beans I received from my winter CSA share. Rebeca’s advice to listen to music and jump around was indeed elevating my mood, so I might as well follow her initial thought to eat.

And El Gran Combo’s lyrics also made sense to me. Rice and beans are the real deal, not a light salad that will leave you empty or wanting.

What will satisfy and fill your belly? Rice and beans. So there.

Not having an expertise in this area, I asked Felicia, the woman who runs the small staff cafeteria at work, and whose own Dominican rice and beans are legendary among the staff.

rice and beans in a bowl
Photo: Casey Barber

Felicia has been making it all her life so her instructions were “a little of this, a touch of that,” and some “Niña, don’t forget to add the vinegar. Es màs importante.”

Truly capturing these kinds of recipes is always elusive, especially given the best version of rice and beans is one cooked by your own abuela.

But from what I can best determine, here is a classic recipe for arroz con habichuelas from one very trusted source.

rice and beans in a bowl

Rice and Beans (Dominican-Style with Vinegar)

Yield: 4 servings
Prep Time: 15 minutes
Cook Time: 1 hour 30 minutes
Additional Time: 8 hours
Total Time: 9 hours 45 minutes

Rice and beans, or arroz con habichuelas, are a popular dish in nearly every Latin or Caribbean community. Here's a version with vinegar.

Ingredients

  • 6 ounces (168 grams) dried red beans, black beans, or Roman beans
  • 4 tablespoons olive oil, divided
  • 1/2 a small green pepper, finely diced
  • 1/2 a small onion, finely diced
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
  • 3 ounces tomato paste
  • 1 teaspoon allspice
  • 5-6 fresh cilantro leaves, roughly chopped
  • 1 cup white or yellow rice
  • kosher salt to taste

Instructions

  1. Rinse the dried beans in a colander, then pour into a medium bowl.
  2. Add enough water to cover the beans by 2 inches and soak overnight.
  3. Drain the beans and place them in a medium (2 -to 3-quart) stockpot. Add enough fresh water to cover the beans by 1 inch.
  4. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat to bring the beans down to a simmer.
  5. Heat 2 or 3 cups of water in a teapot or separate small pan until boiling, then take off heat and reserve. This is insurance water in case the beans are very thirsty and soak up all the cooking liquid.
  6. Cook the beans, stirring occasionally, for about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Taste the beans after 45 minutes to see if they are nearly tender.
  7. If the beans have absorbed almost all of the water during their simmering time, add some of the insurance water to keep things on the soupy side.
  8. While the beans are cooking, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a 10-inch skillet over medium heat.
  9. Add the green pepper, onion, and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the garlic starts to brown.
  10. Stir in the vinegar for 30 seconds, then take the vegetables off the heat and set aside. (My research deems that the addition of vinegar is Felicia's exclusively.)
  11. When the beans are al dente, add the reserved vegetables, tomato paste, allspice and cilantro.
  12. Simmer for 30 minutes more, adding more insurance water as necessary to keep the beans saucy and soupy.
  13. Meanwhile, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a saucepan.
  14. When the oil starts to sizzle, add the rice.
  15. Stir until the rice is lightly toasted (like risotto) and then add 2 1/2-3 cups of hot water and stir.
  16. Once it returns to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes or until all the water has boiled off.
  17. Cover the rice to keep warm until the beans are done.
  18. When the beans are tender, season with salt to taste. Serve with the rice.
Nutrition Information:
Yield: 4 Serving Size: 1
Amount Per Serving: Calories: 668Total Fat: 17gSaturated Fat: 2gTrans Fat: 0gUnsaturated Fat: 14gCholesterol: 0mgSodium: 238mgCarbohydrates: 99gFiber: 26gSugar: 5gProtein: 33g

The nutritional information above is computer-generated and only an estimate.

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14 Comments

  1. @Christine, you can eat rice and beans along side a good roast chicken. You can give it some Dominican flair by mixing up a quick dressing of lime juice and garlic and pouring it over the sliced chicken on your plate.

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