Harboring a Crush on Shepherd’s Pie
As of spring 2016, Shepherd’s Pie is closed. The space is now occupied by the restaurant 18 Central.
I jumped a little when I first walked into the guest room we usually occupied during our week in Maine. What I thought was the new family cat was actually a small sculpture of a seal, staring up from under a bench with Kewpie Doll eyes.
“What’s that?” I asked Dan. It hadn’t been there last time we visited.
“Oh! That’s Andre,” he replied so matter-of-factly, like obviously you know about the beloved seal that was basically the mascot of a small Maine town for like 20 years and they made a terrible kids’ movie about it and I can’t believe you’re asking me this question. “We can go see the harbor where he lived if you want.”
And so I learned the second best thing about Rockport, Maine. The first best thing is the existence of Shepherd’s Pie.
It’s easy to figure out the clever reference in the restaurant’s name by a quick look at the facade, a quick walk up the hill from the Rockport harbor–where Andre frolicked for most of his long seal life (26 years!) and where a slightly more stately statue than the one in our bedroom keeps watch. The place isn’t just named for the shepherd’s pie on the menu and all the comforting, warming qualities that dish evokes, but for the fact that it’s housed in the Shepherd Building. A photo tucked away in the bathroom shows off the former Shepherd Company grocery that used to inhabit the space.
On this August weeknight, we were one of the first diners to slide our weary lighthouse-overloaded bones onto seats at the long bar at 4:30 pm. Dennis, the affable barkeep, simultaneously trained a new hire in the art of making a jalapeño-laced cocktail while nudging me into ordering two dishes. Though the menu’s divided into short sections–Bar Snacks, From the Grill, Plates–nearly any item save a few snacks is big enough to satisfy on its own, and no one will shame you for choosing only one thing or sharing plates.
So despite hoovering down haddock tacos at Home Kitchen Cafe in Rockland only hours before, a spot opened up in my stomach for both the pork belly sandwich, stacked with housemade pickles and dripping with red pepper jelly, and all of the freshly fried tortilla triangles that scooped up every last strand in a heaping coupe of Maine crab ceviche. (Dan, of course, had a burger, this one with local cheese, purple mustard, and tomato confit in place of ketchup. He cleaned the plate.)
Though I pride myself on seeking out the small gems, the holes-in-the-wall, the best bites to eat on any trip, this surpassed pretty much every expectation. The food at Shepherd’s Pie is better than the food I’ve eaten at some of Portland’s critically-acclaimed-yet-shall-not-be-named restaurants. It’s better, and better priced, than the food at some of Manhattan and Brooklyn’s precious locavore bistros.
It was so good, in fact, that we did the drive again–almost an hour each way–from the homestead near Wiscasset to Rockport a few days later, this time with family in tow. (A repeat visit to a restaurant on vacation? Who are you and what have you done with Casey?) Chef Brian Hill has said in interviews that he intended this place as a more casual sibling to his schmancier Francine Bistro just up the road in Camden, and Shepherd’s Pie’s no-reservations policy was in full effect at 8:00 pm on a Saturday night.
No matter. Another quick walk to visit Andre’s harbor and a round of bar snacks killed the hour-long wait. Seated at one of the cushy banquettes built into the restaurant’s front bay windows, we filled every square inch of the table with plates of the signature fried clam tacos, Berkshire pork with salted caramel, fried chicken with vinegar dipping sauce, cheesy grits, buttery green beans, another pork belly sandwich because I’d talked it up so much, and bowls of salty fresh-cut fries. We thanked Dan’s family for letting us bunk with the Andre sculpture the best way we could. With food.
I even managed to snag the last bottle of Lunch IPA, a gorgeous cult brew (so small batch it’s only been brewed twice!) from Maine Beer Company. The beer is named after yet another Maine mammal, a whale with a “bite” out of her fin who’s been spotted swimming up and down the coast for years. Lunch doesn’t have a statue in her honor yet, but give it time. In a few years, maybe I’ll make my own little sculpture to put in the guest room next to Andre.
Shepherd’s Pie, 18 Central St., Rockport, ME. 207-236-8500. No reservations.
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Casey Barber
Casey Barber is the owner and founder of Good Food Stories LLC and a visual storyteller whose work often focuses on the intersection of food and culture. She is also the author of the cookbooks Pierogi Love: New Takes on an Old-World Comfort Food and Classic Snacks Made from Scratch: 70 Homemade Versions of Your Favorite Brand-Name Treats, and she couldn’t get anything done without the help of her executive assistant cats, Bixby and Lenny. Her favorite color is obviously orange.
Thanks for this tip. We are heading to Maine shortly and will make a slight detour now.
Dang, post this again next summer so we don’t forget!
RB, in case I forget to remind you before next summer’s trip – all of our posts are categorized and catalogued for easy future access, and you’ll find all my Maine recommendations under “Cities & Restaurants” in our main navigation bar way up theeere (I’m pointing to the header at top of the page, can’t you see me?).
Tori, so good to “meet” you and I’m so jealous that you get to eat at Shepherd’s Pie all the time. Any unforgettable additions to the menu for fall?
We’re neighbors from the next town over, Camden. Sheperds Pie is our new go to restaurant. Something for everyone, and always good!
Sounds wonderful!
Reading this makes me sad — because we’re not there.
Great article. The pictures are great and the places are so interesting.
never mind the lobster and the ocean, we’ve now got another reason to vacation in Maine next summer. Bookmarked!
Sounds like an amazing restaurant
I’ll have to keep this one in mind when we finally get up to Maine. Sounds wonderful!
I actually haven’t been to Maine in years and would love to go back. That crab in a cup looks fab.
I haven’t been to Rockport in a very long time, but I remember the statue. I think I have a photo of it somewhere. Now I must go back and sample this wonderful restaurant.
I’ve never been to Maine, but when I go a visit to Shepred’s Pie will be on the list. Sounds yummy!
I haven’t been to Maine. I’d like to. Thanks for letting me visit vicariously.
reminds me that it is too long since I’ve been to Maine. great description of the place and the food. thanks, Casey.
Am so happy to have found your blog through the NYTimes article!
And to see that you too love Sheperd’s Pie!
I’ve added a link to your post to my recent Sheperd’s Pie posting — http://2bnmaine.com/blog/2011/10/04/shepherds-pie-rockport-maine-yum/
I hadn’t heard the ‘Lunch’ story. Thanks for that.
Come back! Maybe we could meet there for drinks.