Cold Borscht, a Russian Classic

Irene Kopitov

by Irene Kopitov on August 18, 2010

Please give a hearty welcome to new contributor Irene Kopitov, dear friend of the GFS family, Napoleon Dynamite super-fan, and radish addict. Irene was born in Russia but moved with her family to Boston when she was a tiny slip of a thing, and today introduces us to that most Russkie of dishes: cold borscht. Beet fanatics unite!

There is a reason Dwight Schrute has always been my favorite character on The Office. When he steps away from his day job as paper salesman, Dwight pursues his real passion as proprietor of the family-owned Schrute Farms and dedicated harvester of the best beets in Scranton, PA. Most laugh at his ridiculous pride in growing one of the world’s least sexy vegetables. Not me. Beets have a very special place in my heart.

So, when we made plans for yet another monthly gathering of the Glory Salon in the hot and humid thick of summer in New York, my friend Stela made the most brilliant suggestion: cold beet soup, or as the Russians call it—borscht.

Russian borscht soup
This also fit in nicely with my long-standing mission of learning more Russian dishes. Growing up in a Russian family and having a mother who is an incredible cook, I often take the amazing meals she whips up (seemingly in an instant) for granted and have been wanting to spend more time with her in the kitchen actually paying attention. Beets often being a star ingredient in Russian cuisine, our Glory Salon borscht was the perfect place to start.

I should note that my mom has been known to skip a step or two in the past when giving me a recipe. Perfect roasted chicken? According to her, it’s simple: “Just salt, pepper, oven, you’re done!” These trivial in-between steps have become intuitive and she forgets her daughter is still very much a work in progress in the kitchen. When she told me cold borscht couldn’t be easier and emailed me the recipe, naturally I was skeptical. No, she assured me, it’s really that easy, just try it.

I did. She was right.

The incredible flavor and color of beets infuses the soup instantly and the whole process really only involves three ingredients: beets, potatoes, and water. Once your soup has simmered and cooled, a dollop of sour cream gives it a brilliant fuchsia color (committing Russian heresy, I used low fat—sorry, mom).

The real key is in the garnish, where you get to play and put in the things you love. Mine had dill (of course), chopped scallion, and diced cucumber. You can also add in delicate slices of hard-boiled egg for extra heft. Your kitchen may have purple splatter splashed everywhere when you’re done, but it will be well worth it.

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{ 10 comments… read them below or add one }

Kate August 18, 2010 at 10:36 am

love this post and never knew beets could be so tasty! thanks irene and look forward to futre posts from you : )

Lisa (dinner party) August 18, 2010 at 3:24 pm

Mmm…borscht. It’s such a fantastic color.

Alexandra August 20, 2010 at 11:55 am

Another Russian here. I serve borscht mostly in winter. But, hey, cold? Sure, why not. Interesting to note you do not add any vinegar, which American recipes often call for.

Danielle Oteri Danielle August 20, 2010 at 1:28 pm

I loved it and I don’t even like beets!

Melanie Haiken August 20, 2010 at 2:33 pm

Okay, weird finicky question that will reveal my OCD tendencies: Is there a trick to cooking with beets so they don’t stain everything in sight? Every time I need to chop beets I end up with stained cutting board, stained counter, stained dishes, stained clothes… then I’m reluctant to do it again!

Jennifer Margulis August 20, 2010 at 2:56 pm

My grandma used to make borscht. But we’ve never had it cold. I’m sort of scared to try it COLD but it sounds sooo good.

MyKidsEatSquid August 20, 2010 at 5:42 pm

I was just talking to a woman last night at my daughter’s school open house who recently moved to the US from Russia. Of course, I asked her about what foods she craved and she mentioned borscht. I haven’t thought of having it cold either.

Merr August 20, 2010 at 7:28 pm

Ah! I must share this recipe with my daughters who Russian! When they came to the US I found a vegetarian hot borscht recipe that they love, but I have to admit they ran circles around me in the kitchen – what amazing cooks they were as kids (and still are).
All I can say is, keep the Russian recipes coming (esp vegetarian ones)!

Casey Barber Casey August 21, 2010 at 9:52 am

Melanie, not sure if there’s ever a truly foolproof way to keep beets from staining the kitchen. I have a dark green apron (for ALL my messes, not just beet-related ones) and put old towels under my red cutting board to mop up extra juice. I try not to peel/chop beets on days when I know I have to meet non-food-obsessed people, because they won’t understand my pink fingers, but the dye usually dissipates with a few showers, right?

Kathryn Cohen September 22, 2010 at 7:13 pm

This looks amazing. I am so excited to try borscht recipe. Such a well done and well written piece.

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