The How-To Kitchen: Custards + Vanilla Ice Cream

Casey Barber

by Casey Barber on May 24, 2010

On the scale of intimidating dishes, the word “custard” doesn’t usually induce palpitations the way “souffle” does, but there’s a bit of trepidation in the home cookosphere anytime the idea of heating egg yolks comes into play. And it just shouldn’t be so.

Chances are, you’ve already successfully whipped up a custard without realizing it. Do you stir a little cream into your eggs with a fork before scrambling them? Hey, you’re technically making a custard and taking it a step further. Have you ever whisked up a few eggs and a cup of milk before pouring it over some bread cubes for a strata? That’s a custard too.

As the inimitable Alton Brown explains it, a custard is simply “any cooked combination of egg and liquid.” It’s the act of whisking eggs into another wet substance (usually milk or cream), and then using heat to bind the clever little proteins in the egg with the liquid and fat together into a smooth, softly-textured solid.

So what else can you can make with custard? Oh, how about…

  • ice cream
  • pots de crème
  • crème brulée, crème caramel, and flan
  • bread puddings galore
  • old-fashioned rice pudding
  • quiches, stratas, and fluffy frittatas
  • citrus curds, like my one true love, lemon curd
  • pie fillings like chocolate cream, fruit chiffon and sugar-cream Hoosier pie

The baked-custard preparation is pretty simple to accomplish, as seen in the strata mentioned above, for instance, or for a quiche: Crack half a dozen eggs into bowl, add a cup of milk or half & half (oh, decadence) along with some salt and pepper, whisk or blend well, and pour over your choice of vegetables, cheese and other tasty bits in a blind-baked tart shell before popping into the oven for 45 minutes at 400˚.

The stovetop method, usually found when prepping custards on the dessert side of the spectrum like crème brulée and ice cream, has two crucial steps that you’ve got to follow for custard greatness. But it’s a technique that takes just once to learn, and this recipe is a perfect introduction.

The following vanilla ice cream recipe, from The Ultimate Ice Cream Book by Bruce Weinstein, uses the basic techniques of scalding and tempering to create a custard base on the stovetop. It also uses whole eggs instead of multiple egg yolks, which eases my guilt about sending excess egg whites down the drain.

Scalding is just another word for heating the milk before mixing it with the eggs. The warm liquid brings the temperature of the entire mixture up more quickly, which means less time on the burner/in the oven (if you’re doing a flan/brulée), and less of a chance to overcook the whole thing.

Tempering the eggs (pictured below) is a very simple process akin to drizzling oil into a vinaigrette, making it easier to incorporate two ingredients that would otherwise hate each other and create a nasty substance if you dumped them in all at once. In this case, by dribbling the hot milk slowly and whisking quickly, you’re evenly increasing the temperature across the board so the eggs won’t scramble.

tempering eggs, custard, vanilla ice cream

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{ 1 comment… read it below or add one }

wino May 24, 2010 at 6:17 pm

Looks yummy, but much work for me!! I will let Carol do it.

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